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An A to Z Glossary of skin & hair care ingredients & terms. Definition guide of skin & hair care buzzwords. Focusing on ingredients with effective results.

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A

A – Al     Am – Az

Amla fruit AKA Indian Gooseberry

Amino Acids

Amino acids, the building blocks of proteins, are commonly found in shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in products. These small acids compose keratin. Keratin is the main structural component of hair. Amino acids contained in hair care are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft to repair and strengthen. Amino Acids are also found in skincare, generally geared towards collagen production.

Amla

Amla (AKA Emblica Officinalis) is for both hair and skin care. For skin care, Amla is high in Vitamin C to increase collagen and fades scars. Amla is nutrient-rich and restorative. Amla is a wonder fruit. It is a non-greasy oil to help grow long, silky and shiny hair. Indian Gooseberry makes hair soft, silky, and pliable. Amla nourishes both hair and scalp, promotes hair growth and to prevent grey hair.

Amalaki

Amalaki is another term for Amla or Indian Gooseberry. It prevents damage to the skin and soothes redness.

Amaranthus Hypochondriacus

Amaranthus hypochondriacus makes skin glow

Unrefined amaranth seed oil is naturally rich in squalene, vitamin E, and omega-6. These provide skin a dewy glow and quickly absorb.

Amaranth seed oil provides an outstanding fatty acid profile to hydrate delicate eye area skin.  It is a natural anti-inflammatory antioxidant and is non-comedogenic.

Amyris Balsamifera

Amyris balsamifera is Amyris bark oil, which is a moisturizing oil from the torchwood tree.

It is often used as an essential oil for relaxation. It also has skin rejuvenation benefits that slow down the appearance of aging.

Andiroba Seed Oil

Andiroba Seed Oil is cold-pressed extracted from the Andiroba tree seeds of the Amazon Forest. Andiroba seed oil is naturally rich in antioxidants, Vitamins A, C and E, and fatty acids. It is ideal for dry skin types as an emollient that is easily absorbed. It promotes skin elasticity.

Ananas Sativus Fruit

Ananas Sativus Fruit is Pineapple Fruit.

It contains fruit extracts that are effective exfoliants to sloughs off dead cells on the surface of the skin while imparting soothing skin benefits.

Antioxidants

Apple Stem Cells target wrinkles

Antioxidants prevent premature aging by slowing down or preventing the oxidation of important molecules, including within the hair and skin. They prevent deterioration from various chemical reactions with oxygen. Anti-oxidant foods, supplements, and topicals are a scientifically proven part of effective skincare.

Apium graveolens

Apium graveolens is organic celery CO2 Total extract.

Celery is trending in skincare because it is a soothing anti-inflammatory that contains Vitamins A, C, and K.
Celery extract is an antioxidant that fights free radicals and sun damage.

Celery contains Vitamins A, C, and K

Apple Stem Cells

Apple Stem Cells are a highly effective form of stem cells that target wrinkles. Apple Stem cells come from a specific Swiss apple variety.

Apricot

Apricot Oil

An emollient that softens and smooths. Apricot Kernel oil is lighter than many other oils but still provides great sheen.

Ideal for thin, fine hair, or thin blonde or silver hair. An emollient that softens and smooths. For skin, apricot oil contains antioxidant vitamin E and nourishing fatty acids (mostly oleic acid 54-74%, linoleic acid 12-35%). It has nourishing and moisturizing properties and is quite easily absorbed into the skin.

Aqua 3G 

This ingredient is rare in skincare products because it is quite pricey. It contains an algae extract called glyceryl-glucoside. Glyceryl-glucoside works with the Aquaporins, the water conduits of cells. It stops moisture loss.

Arbutin

A natural skin-lightening agent extracted from bearberry. It is composed of glucose and hydroquinone. It inhibits melanocytes from producing melanin. Over time this slowly reduces hyperpigmentation. Effective on acne scars, photoaging, age spots and certain types of dark undereye circles. Pairs well with Niacinamide. Also seen as Alpha-arbutin in some cosmetic formulations.

Argan Nut is the source of Argan Oil

Argan Oil

Argan Oil or Argan Nut Oil deeply hydrates scaly skin and dry hair.

For skin, it regulates sebum production to reduce breakouts and fades acne scars. It is an anti-oxidant with fatty acids that are like a superfood for the skin.

Argan oil massaged into the scalp aids in stimulating hair growth. It softens hair length but its’ best use is the repair of damaged follicles.

Arginine

An amino acid that protects skin from free radicals.

Arginine is an essential amino acid, the building blocks of skin peptides and proteins as well as hydration transportation within the skin. It helps restore skin damage. Vital to healthy, beautiful skin.

Argireline

Argireline is called Botox in a Jar because it inhibits the muscle contractions that cause expression lines. There is no impairment of your actual facial expressions.

Argireline does not repair skin or boost collagen; it only limits future damage.

Arnica Montana flower

Arnica

Arnica flower is a natural anti-inflammatory. It reduces puffiness without causing dryness or dehydration around the delicate eye skin. It also decreases bruising and inflammation. Arnica promotes healing and reduces swelling.

Arnica flower is also known as Arnica Montana flower or the mountain daisy.

Arrowroot Powder

Arrowroot Powder is a skin softener that heals burns and abrasions. It also works to thicken the consistency of a product. Commonly used in organic shaving lotions and dry skincare creams and lotions. It is a pre-emptive remedy for razor burn.

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic Acid, also known as L-Ascorbic Acid, is a soluble, stable Vitamin C that is used on a topical level.  It brightens the skin, increases collagen production, and reduces free-radical damage.  It is the strongest C of several C variants available within Vitamin C products. If well tolerated, Ascorbic Acid works quickly, especially when formulated with effective buffering ingredients.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

A stable C derivative that easily penetrates the skin. Research shows once it penetrates the skin it behaves like pure vitamin C offering antioxidant protection, collagen boosting, and fading hyperpigmentation.[2]

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl Palmitate a stable form of topical Vitamin C. It is fat-soluble. It is less acidic, resulting in less skin irritation or redness when applied topically.  As a supplement, Ascorbyl Palmitate is an excellent anti-oxidant and is readily available in powder and supplement form. See C Ester.

Asparagus

Asparagus is an anti-inflammatory and diuretic that removes skin puffiness. It has excellent skin-conditioning and anti-aging properties. It slows the cellular aging process including collagen loss and dermis thinning.

Asparagus

Astaxanthin

Astaxanthin is one of the most powerful antioxidants in skincare. It is 65 times stronger than Vitamin C in combating free radicals. It protects collagen and elastin skin cells against oxidation or decay. [3, 4] It is moisturizing and has UV blocking properties.

Astaxanthin counteracts UV damage and improves elasticity via improved skin function. It promotes collagen production. [5] Astaxanthin suppresses hyperpigmentation and photoaging. Clinical studies show Astaxanthin reduces wrinkle formation [6].

Australian Kakadu Plum

Kakadu plums are the highest natural source of vitamin C to support collagen synthesis and provide antioxidant support. It reduces acne, fades scars, and reduces fine lines.

Kakadu plums are also high in gallic acid and ellagic acid to fight free radicals, hydrate the skin and prevent the skin from damage.

Avena Sativa

Avena Sativa is better known as colloidal oatmeal.

Avobenzone

Within topical, broad range UV protectors and sunscreens, avobenzone is a chemical that blocks UVA I, UVA II, and UVB wavelengths, greatly reducing the impact of UV rays causing photodamage.  [7]

Avena Strigosa Seed Extract

Black oat extract is rich in amino acids. It helps even brittle, dry hair retain moisture. It also imparts a healthy-looking natural gloss.

Avocado Oil

Avocado

Avocado oil benefits the hair, scalp, and skin. Avocado oil massaged into the scalp prompts blood flow to hair follicles. Avocado Oil is 72% monounsaturated fatty acids. This is higher than Coconut or Grapeseed oils. Avocado Oil mixes with water better than other oils. Avocado oil readily penetrates into the hair strand and even the hair cortex. Avocado Oil doesn’t sit on the scalp like Coconut. Rather it absorbs, making it an ideal moisturizer for dry, itchy scalps.  Avocado oil decreases dryness and improves texture on hair and skin. Rich in Omegas 3 and 6, Vitamins C, D, and E, Avocado Oil promotes scar healing and collagen production.[8]

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid is an organic compound that brightens the skin tone. It gently reduces skin redness even in pustular rosacea.

Azulene

Azulene (Guaiazulene) is a naturally blue oil that is extracted from chamomile. In skincare, like chamomile, it holds skin-soothing properties including being an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anti-fungal agent.

References

1. Vinay, T. et al. Beneficial Effects of Marine Algal Compounds in Cosmeceuticals. Marine Drugs 11(1), 146-164 (2013)
2. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4)  Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
3. Davinelli S, Nielsen ME, Scapagnini G. Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Review. Nutrients. 2018 Apr 22;10(4):522. doi: 10.3390/nu10040522. PMID: 29690549; PMCID: PMC5946307.
4. Nishida, Y. and E. Yamashita. œQuenching Activities of Common Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Antioxidants against Singlet Oxygen Using Chemiluminescence Detection System. 2007).
   
5. Camera E., Mastrofrancesco A., Fabbri C., Daubrawa F., Picardo M., Sies H., Stahl W. Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and beta-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymes. Exp. Dermatol. 2009;18:222–231. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00790.x.
6. Tominaga K., Hongo N., Karato M., Yamashita E. Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on human subjects. Acta Biochim. Pol. 2012;59:43-47.
7. National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 51040, Avobenzone. https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Avobenzone. Accessed Aug. 23, 2022.
8. de Oliveira, Ana Paula et al. “Effect of semisolid formulation of persea americana mill (avocado) oil on wound healing” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine : eCAM vol. 2013 (2013): 472382. doi:10.1155/2013/47238

DEFINING BEAUTY Glossary © 2022 Style Chicks and StyleChicks.com.

All Rights Reserved.

Skin & Hair Glossary of Ingredients. Beauty terms seen on Style Chicks. Defining what ingredients are & how to best use them. Frequently updated.

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T

Tamanu

Tamanu Oil

Tamanu Oil comes from a nut of the Tamanu Tree, also known as “Beauty Leaf”. It is a versatile oil used for hair and skin. Tamanu Oil has a rare fatty acid profile that makes skin softer and pliable while healing. [1]

Tamanu Oil is used for cold sores, psoriasis, eczema, acne scars, general scars, burns, stretch marks, dry scalp, and flaky, scaly or overly dry skin. Tamanu oil is also a topical healing agent with antineuralgic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antibiotic, and antioxidant properties. Tamanu Oil hydrates dry hair, acting as a humectant. Tamanu Oil research studies are limited and still emerging. Studies that do exist support Tamanu Oil’s exceptional skin healing abilities.

Tangerine

Tangerine Oil

Tangerine Oil has antifungal and antiseptic properties, which makes it ideal for skincare, especially as a gentle treatment for acne. It also helps to heal the skin.

Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract

Dandelion Leaf extract. Dandelion stimulates collagen production. These leaves are rich in antioxidants and packed with vitamins A, C, and E. This extract protects skin against free radical damage and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dandelion Leaf Extract also contains Magnesium and zinc to detoxify skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties calm irritation and puffiness.

Tea Tree Oil

Tea Tree Oil is an amazing antibacterial, antifungal, moisturizing toner, cleanser, and astringent. It effectively treats acne and prevents future breakouts. It is not drying like other acne-treating ingredients, so it is effective on sensitive skin and adult acne. It even treats cystic acne. Also useful on dandruff when used as a toner or a few drops of Tea Tree Oil in shampoo. How to use Tea Tree Oil for Skin and Hair.

Flowering Tea Tree

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is fat-soluble Vitamin C. Its’ fatty acid component penetrates the skin easily. It pairs well with other vitamin C forms for enhanced effectiveness. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate absorbs deeply and can produce more collagen than other C variants. This skin-plumping antioxidant fights free radicals to prevent wrinkles.?

Texture, Hair

Hair texture is classified by hair diameter and strength. Generally, the hair is considered as fine, medium and coarse. Each hair texture has different moisture and protein level needs. Hair texture defines how hair should be cared for, and what oils and ingredients to use to keep hair in the best condition.

Texture, Hair – Fine

Fine hair is the narrowest diameter. It is not thin hair, but it is delicate and prone to breakage. Often baby soft and silky, most conditioning products are too heavy for fine hair and make the hair appear flat. Hair coloring can make fine hair brittle. Light oils such as apricot benefit fine hair.

Texture, Hair – Medium

Medium texture hair is the most common. It is more resilient than fine hair but does not appear as silky. It can be straight or wavy. Medium hair requires a balance of nourishment and hydration.

Texture, Hair – Coarse

Coarse texture hair is strong and thick. It can tolerate a fair amount of heat and processing. It has a wide diameter which gives it more surface to lose moisture. Because of this, coarse hair is not naturally dry but often becomes dry. It requires consistent hydration with moisturizing shampoos and humectant conditioners and styling products.

Texture Spray

Texture spray adds weight and holding power for finger styling. It is a diluted hybrid of hair spray and gel for a messy hair look. Beach spray.

Thyme

Texture spray adds weight and holding power for finger styling. It is a diluted hybrid of hair spray and gel for a messy hair look. Beach spray.

Thyme has skin protective properties, including some UVA and UVB protection.

Thyme is also high in antioxidants and is a general skin anti-ager.

Titanium Dioxide

Titanium Dioxide is a natural mineral used for sun protection, seen in sunscreen and some cosmetics.

Tocopherol

A form of Vitamin E used in skincare preparations. Organic vitamin E comes from sources such as non-GMO sunflowers and plant seeds.

Tocopherol softens the skin, easing the rough edges of wrinkles while making photo-damaged skin more pliable.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopheryl Acetate is the most potent form of Vitamin E.

Tremella fuciformis

Similar properties to Hyaluronic acid. See Snow Mushroom. 

Tretinoin is a prescription retinol that is buffered in an emollient base.

Tretinoin

Tretinoin is a prescription Vitamin A. It is retinol in a buffering emollient base. It used to treat acne, sun damage, and wrinkles.  Can be used sparingly along the orbital bone to reduce crow’s feet. Easier to tolerate than other retinoids as it is buffered, but powerful.

Tricholastyl

Tricholastyl is in some lash growth serums. It helps to prevent lash loss triggers including inflammation and free radicals.

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is a very deep chemical peel acid. It is strong enough to dissolve a wart and reaches deeper skin layers. It creates an even appearance to skin texture and tone. It reduces the appearance of rough patches, wrinkles, and scars from teenage acne, childhood chicken pox scars, as well as lightening brown age spots. Stronger than other acids. Use with caution, best for professional use.

Triethylhexanoin 

Triethylhexanoin is considered a safe humectant that makes skin smooth. It is comprised of glycerin and 2-ethylhexanoic acid (a fatty acid). It is not an active but rather a supporting ingredient that enables a smooth finish to a skincare product.

Triisostearyl Citrate

Triisostearyl Citrate is form of citric acid ester. It is an emollient that is smooth and non-greasy. It imparts pigment-dispersing powder.

Triglyceride 

Triglyceride is a fatty acid that moisturizes. It is used in some lash growth serums.

Triphala

Triphala is a traditional medicine used to remove toxins, used in trace amounts in some skincare.

Tsubaki Camellia

Tsubaki Camellia Oil

Tsubaki is the authentic name for Japanese Camellia oil, also called Camellia Japonica Oil. Japanese Camellia (Tsubaki) Oil comes from the seeds of the Japanese Camellia. It can deeply penetrate the skin and promotes elastin and collagen production. Tsubaki was traditionally used by Geishas for high hair shine and to promote youthful skin. It is an antioxidant and moisturizer, rich in oleic acid to help the skin retain hydration. Tsubaki also contains polyphenols, vitamins A, D, C, and E. This non-comedogenic oil promotes skin elasticity.[2] Tsubaki is most effective at transdermal collagen and elastin delivery. It is a pale golden lightweight oil, similar to hemi-squalene in is’ consistency.

Tsuge wooden comb

A comb made from tsuge wood specifically to gently distribute Tsubaki through the hair without breakage or snagging.  Very useful for hair oiling treatments or to apply hair oil for high shine.

Turmeric

Turmeric

Turmeric fights inflammation, dryness, and redness. In quantity, can temporarily impart a colored stain to skin that gives the appearance of decreased under-eye darkness. In a tea or smoothie, it has many health and beauty benefits, including glowing skin. Topical turmeric treats acne and fades discoloration.

Thymoquinone

Thymoquinone is found in Black Cumin Seed Oil from the Nigella sativa bloom. It is an excellent antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant.

References

1. Lguillier, Teddy et al. “The Wound Healing and Antibacterial Activity of Five Ethnomedical Calophyllum inophyllum Oils: An Alternative Therapeutic Strategy to Treat Infected Wounds.” PLos one vol. 10,9 e0138602. 25 Sep. 2015, doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0138602
2. Jung, E. et al. Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function. Journal of ethnopharmacology 112.1, 127-131 (2007)