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Glossary of ingredients & terms found in skincare and haircare.

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P

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a peptide that stimulates collagen production. Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 also creates a brighter and more refined skin texture. This peptide can stimulate cell migration, collagen synthesis, and fibroblast proliferation and scaffolding.  [1] According to studies, the Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 was found to be equal to or more effective than Renova® cream in regard to therapy for fine lines and wrinkles of the periorbital region.[2]

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is a vegan-friendly manufactured peptide in Matrixyl Synthe’ 6. Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 promotes collagen and hyaluronic acid production. It improves fine lines and wrinkles, most notably forehead lines and crow’s feet.

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)

Panthenol is a humectant, emollient, and moisturizer. It is moisture-binding and soothing. Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) and is a provitamin of B5.  Panthenol penetrates the hair shaft and locks in moisture. It also retains moisture along the hair surface which reflects light for a shiny appearance.  The sealed-in moisture plumps the hair shaft which gives the hair a more voluminous appearance. Panthenol makes hair look healthier by boosting shine and plumping the hair shaft. More volume gives even damaged or thinning hair a healthier appearance. [3] For very porous hair, Panthenol behaves like a protein.

Papaya

Panthenol moisturizes the scalp and is believed to promote cell regeneration. Panthenol makes hair look healthier by boosting shine and plumping the hair shaft. It is a humectant that fosters skin healing. [4]

Papain Enzyme

From the Papaya fruit.

These enzymes gently digest keratinized dead epithelium cells on the skin’surface. This reduces inflammation while maintaining protective lipid layers.

Papaya Seed Oil

Papaya Seed Oil is high in linoleic and Behenic acid. Behenic acid prevents hair breakage to keep lashes lush and long.

Parabens

Parabens are common preservatives in food and cosmetics to prevent bacteria and fungus formation.

Passionfruit

Passiflora Edulis

Passiflora edulis is passionfruit oil. Passionfruit oil soothes dry skin and restores brittle hair.

Passionfruit oil also contains lycopene.

Peach extract

Peach Extract

Peach extract is used as an emollient to make skin soft and smooth. It contains multiple skin-friendly minerals, antioxidants and vitamins including Vitamins A, B, E, and K and lots of C. Calcium helps speed up cell turnover. Peach extract softens skin, treats, and encourages cell repair to keep skin fresh and healthy. Peach extract is rare in skincare because it is a costly ingredient to harvest.

Pea Peptides

Pea Peptides come from garden peas

Pea Peptides, also known as Pisum Sativum, come from the garden pea. Pea Peptides aid the structure of the hair. Pea Peptides minimize UV damage to the scalp. Pea Peptides contain Lysine, important for hair growth promotion at the follicular level and sebum production regulation, which decreases with age. Pea Peptides absorb easily. Pea extract can calm irritated skin. Rich in ellagic and gallic acids, beta-sitosterol, and quercetin it has antioxidant benefits. It protects collagen and elastin which makes it an ideal anti-aging treatment to promote elasticity and improve skin firming.

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Extract is a sweet-scented, rare geranium. It boosts skin elasticity and regulates sebum production. It is a very good antioxidant for the skin. It reduces inflammation by releasing excess water in skin tissue. [5]. The extract is superior to the oil as it removes the possibility of skin irritation due to the fragrance.

Pelargonium Roseum 

Pelargonium Roseum is rose geranium oil. This formulation uses organic rose geranium oil.

Rose Geranium Oil revitalizes congested and oily skin while being gently soothing dry skin and eczema.

Geranium oil makes skin glow and heals inflammatory skin conditions and topical ingredient induced irritation.[2] It also contains a fatty acid profile that promotes healthy skin cells and reduces wrinkles [3].

Penthelyne Glycol

Penthelyne Glycol binds water to the skin.

Peony Root Extract

Peony Root Extract

Peony Root Extract is from the Peony plant. It offers anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits to fight free radicals. Peony Root Extract promotes skin clarity and brightens the complexion. It contains paeonol, which is antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory. It is helpful with regenerating skin experiencing sun damage-related issues. While Peony fights free radicals, it is still gentle and safe to layer with actives such as Retinol or Vitamin C.

Peppermint Oil

Peppermint

Peppermint oil comes from one of the gentle mints. Peppermint Oil an essential oil that provides an invigorating scent and anti-bacterial properties. Combined with Jojoba it makes a stimulating scalp massage oil. Add a drop Peppermint oil to shampoo for an invigorating, deep cleanse to hair and scalp. On the skin, diluted Peppermint has antiseptic and cooling properties to numb skin to irritation. It is used in some cleansers and shampoos. Peppermint is used in tandem with a carrier oil to help with hair growth as it can help clear blocked follicles and build up on the scalp.

Peptides

Peptides are protein fragments that promote collagen growth and repair skin and in some cases hair. Various peptides promote different repair functions. Peptides occur naturally in the body and are contained in skin products to serve as a catalyst or bolster the impact of other active ingredients

Pequi Fruit Oil

Pequi fruit oil heals acne scars and eczema. It is rich in fatty acids. It’s rich emollients soothe dry, damaged skin.

Moisturizing and refining, it is high in Vitamin A and E.

Photoaging, Photodamage

The changes that occur to the skin due to extended exposure to the sun. This includes wrinkles and age spots.

Phototherapy

Phototherapy includes light-based treatment for acne, wrinkles, and various skin conditions.  It includes specific nanometers of colored light to treat different issues. Some include Red, blue, green and yellow light therapy. changes that occur to the skin due after extended exposure to the sun. This includes wrinkles and age spots.

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Also known as Amla or Indian Gooseberry.

Amla is high in Vitamin C to increase collagen and fades scars. Amla is nutrient-rich and restorative.

Phytonadione

Phytonadione is Vitamin K. Vitamin K helps with blood coagulation and circulation. When applied topically, it improves the appearance of under-eye circles. A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed topical Vitamin K works best when paired with other ingredients such as retinol, Vitamins C, E, and the Bs. [6]

Pineapple extract is a natural exfoliator and anti-inflammatories

Pineapple Fruit Extract

Pineapple Fruit contains extracts that are effective natural exfoliants to slough off dead cells on the surface of the skin while imparting soothing skin benefits.

Pine Bark

Bark improves skin hydration and elasticity while decreasing skin fatigue.

Plant Stem Cells

Plant stem cells replace damaged cells in the skin. They increase collagen and reduce inflammation.

Plantain

A starchy cousin of the tropical banana. They are often called cooking bananas.

Useful when paired with comfrey for collagen-producing and healing action. Plantains also contain magnesium for topical muscle cramp relief.

Platinum

Platinum can reach skin layers other ingredients cannot. It binds to peptide ingredients to penetrate into the deepest skin layers. It is where sagging can be repaired by peptides boosting collagen production.

Plukenetia volubilis seed oil, Pracaxi Oil 

Plukenetia volubilis seed oil is better known as sacha inchi.

Plukenetia volubilis seed oil improves moisture retention and rebuilds skin’s natural lipid barriers. It keeps skin elastic with astounding levels of omega-3s and omega-6s and some omega-9s.

Plukenetia volubilis seed oil contains high levels of behenic acid, an anti-aging superstar. It also contains vitamins A and E.

Plukenetia volubilis seed oil has about three times the essential fatty acid content of coconut oil. This scent-free oil has exceptional moisturizing properties. It works on even chronically dry, sensitive, and irritated skin. [7]

Polydecenes, Hydrogenated Polydecene

Polydecenes are synthetic, non-sticky emollients that soften and hydrate skin. Often seen in daytime eye creams. Hydrogenated Polydecene gives a smooth slip and feel to a skincare cream. It is exceptional for improving the look crows feet and fine lines. It does not offer treating benefits but does give a temporary improved appearance.

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax is an ester of triglycerol and beeswax fatty acids.

Polyphenols

Polyphenols are the beneficial anti-aging part of green tea. It reduces sun damage, decreases collagen breakdown and increases cell regeneration.  About two cups of green tea a day give optimal Polyphenols, about 240mg.

Pomegranate arils are rich in antioxidants, vitamins and polyphenols

Pomegranate, Pomegranate Sterol

Pomegranate Sterols is a safe, natural pomegranate based skincare ingredient. Those juicy, jewel-like seeds are arils. Arils are packed with antioxidants, minerals, vitamins A, C, K, and E plus folic acid. Pomegranates contain three times the antioxidants of wine or green tea. [8] Pomegranate Sterol is made by extracting the arils juice.  It increases skin barrier formation and improves skin hydration. Testing shows Pomegranate Sterols holds double its’ weight in water. Meanwhile, it delivers impressive collagen-building results.

Prickly Pear

Prickly Pear

Prickly Pear is a cactus plant superfood packed with skin-enhancing nutrients. It’s antimicrobial benefits reduce acne. [9] It is high in omegas 6 and 9, and vitamin E. Prickly Pear contains amino acids that stimulate collagen production. It’s fatty acids including linoleic acid and oleic acid replenish lost skin lipids to moisturize and restore elasticity. Linoleic acid helps the skin stay hydrated. It also contains vitamin K to brightens under-eye dark circles and promote skin elasticity. As a carrier oil, it helps other active ingredients penetrate the skin. It also serves as a buffer for irritating ingredients. This is useful for sensitive skin types.

Primula Veris Extract or Cowslip

Primula Veris Extract

Primula Veris Extract is an herb commonly known as cowslip. It has cell-regenerating effects that help skin recover from topical actives. It contains C and beta carotene to even out skin tone and it reduces acne scars.

Probiotics

Probiotics are beneficial strains of live bacteria taken in through foods,  supplements or applied topically. These improve gut and skin health.

Propolis

Propolis is a bee product of saliva and beeswax, sometimes called bee glue. It fights infections and heals wounds. Propolis helps keep skin at its’ best. It causes a slight temporary skin plumping action. It is an increasingly common ingredient in skincare. If you are allergic to bee products, take note.For hair, Propolis Extract is cuticle smoothing, softening, and hydrating. It also causes temporary hair plumping action.

Rich in vitamins, it feeds the hair. Propolis Extract contains the amino acid L-Cysteine which strengthens the hair strand.

Propylene glycol, polypropylene glycols

Man-made alcohols that attract and bind water. Humectants, one of the good alcohols.

Protein

Protein is a building block for hair and skin.

Ptosis

The drooping of a body part. Often refers to drooping eyelids or breasts.

Pumpkin with seeds

Pumpkin Seed Oil

Pumpkin Seed Oil inhibits DHT production. The oils’ phytosterols inhibit the conversion of testosterone to DHT in the scalp. Delta-7-sterine stops DHT from binding with hair follicles. [10] Pumpkin seed oil also nourishes the scalp. It contains fatty acids, vitamins, proteins, and minerals. It is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants. This maintains cell structure and moisture levels of the scalp and hair. Pumpkin Seed Oil is high in Vitamin E and zinc to promote skin renewal. Zinc reduces scalp issues such as seborrheic dermatitis, dry flakes, itching, and irritation. Pumpkin Seed Oil is best used within a formulation rather than on its own.

Pycnogenol

Pycnogenol is a plant extract from pine bark. Topical application enhances skin hydration and elasticity. It binds collagen and elastin, preserving key skin proteins.

REFERENCES

1. Fields, K., Falla, T.J., Rodan, K. and Bush, L. (2009), Bioactive peptides: signaling the future. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 8: 8-13. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2009.00416.x
2. Ibid
3. Davis, M., Thomas, J., van de Velde, S., Boissy, Y., Dawson, T., Jr, Iveson, R. and Sutton, K. (2011), A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. British Journal of Dermatology, 165: 24-30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x
4. Mitsuishi, T. , Shimoda, T. , Mitsui, Y. , Kuriyama, Y. and Kawana, S. (2004), The effects of topical application of phytonadione, retinol and vitamins C and E on infraorbital dark circles and wrinkles of the lower eyelids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3: 73-75. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00070.x
5. American Journal of Essential Oils and Natural Products, June 2014, pages 13-16
6. The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, August 2016, pages 1-7; and December 2002, pages 173-178
7. D. Banov, F. Banov, A.S. Bassani, Case Series: The Effectiveness of Fatty Acids from Pracaxi Oil in a Topical Silicone Base for Scar and Wound Therapy, Dermatol. Ther. [Heidelb], vol. 4, pp. 259-269, 2014.)
8. Antioxidant Activity of Pomegranate Juice and Its Relationship with Phenolic Composition and Processing  María I. Gil,†, Francisco A. Tomás-Barberán,†, Betty Hess-Pierce,‡, Deirdre M. Holcroft,§ and, and Adel A. Kader*, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 2000 48 (10)
9. Koubaa, M., Mhemdi, H., Barba, F.J., Angelotti, A., Bouaziz, F., Chaabouni, S.E. and Vorobiev, E. (2017), Seed oil extraction from red prickly pear using hexane and supercritical CO₂: assessment of phenolic compound composition, antioxidant and antibacterial activities. J. Sci. Food Agric., 97: 613-620. doi:10.1002/jsfa.7774
10. Young Hye Cho,1, et al,  Effect of Pumpkin Seed Oil on Hair Growth in Men with Androgenetic Alopecia: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial, Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine Volume 2014, Article ID 549721, 7 pages

Definition Guide for skin and hair care terms. A to Z Glossary of hair & skin ingredients with effective results. Updated regularly.

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L

L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid is a potent form of Vitamin C. It is fresh and concentrated. L-ascorbic acid is a vitamin C that can be applied as a topical skin treatment. Vitamin C is the only antioxidant proven to stimulate collagen production.

L-Cysteine

L-Cysteine is necessary to build Keratin. Hair is 14% cysteine. It is included in some hair growth supplements.

L-Methionine

L-Methionine is for hair structure and strength. It is included in some hair supplements to prevent hair breakage and thinning mid-length.

Lactic acid

Lactic acid exfoliates and brightens skin. It is an organic aHA gentler than glycolic acid. Lactic acid holds moisture while increasing firmness and skin thickness.

Lactobacillus Ferment

When used topically, a probiotic to maintains the microbiome for a healthy skin barrier, reducing skin issues such as acne.

Lanolin

Lanolin is a natural oil from sheep’s wool. It is easily absorbed and protects and soothes skin. Commonly used in lip balms and moisturizers.

Lavender Oil softens hair and skin

Lavender Essential Oil

Lavender Oil softens and conditions the hair and skin. Lavender’s anti-microbial and anti-bacterial properties keep skin and the scalp healthy. It has soothing properties to calm any scalp imbalances such as inflammation or dry skin flaking. This is beneficial to remove dry skin patches where DHT might accumulate. The linalyl acetate in lavender enhances cell growth in skin and hair. Some lab studies show promise in lavender inducing faster hair growth. [1]

Lecithin

Lecithin is a fat found in plants like soybeans. It enhances the hair’s natural barrier, smoothing each shaft to renew the outer layer of the hair. Damaged hair has a ragged cuticle, making hair look dull.

Lemon (Limon) Peel Oil

Lemon/Limon peel contains concentrated vitamin C to build collagen, fade age spots and rejuvenate photodamage. Vitamin C reduces excess oil production, shrinks pores, and exfoliates dead surface skin. These reduce the formation of adult acne while treating skin aging.

Lemon Peel Oil is also a natural exfoliator and skin purifier. ^[2]It alleviates skin inflammation ^[3] and reduces certain infection-causing bacteria. ^[4]

Direct, undiluted application of lemon peel oil can be excessively drying to the skin, but it works well within a balanced formulation.

Lemongrass

The leaves and oils of the Lemongrass plant are used for a variety of ailments including  rheumatism and achy joints.

Lemongrass as an essential oil has a fresh, calming, citrus scent. It also is a bug deterrent. Some use as a diluted topical for oily skin, to detoxify, and spot acne treatment.

Lentigines

Age spots.

Lentinus Edodes 

Lentinus Edodes is Shiitake Mushroom or Shiitake Extract Ferment Filtrate.

Shiitake mushroom.

Shiitake is the anti-aging mushroom. It improves skin elasticity and protects against environmental damage.

Shiitake is a biodynamic ingredient. It slows aging by reinforcing the skin’s biological protection mechanisms. [5] It is ideal for protecting sensitive and delicate skin. It also helps restore sun-damaged skin. [6]

Shiitake contains kojic acid. Kojic acid lightens discoloration.

Shiitake also contains copper, which stimulates collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production.

And Shiitake mushrooms contain selenium to decrease irritation and calm inflammation.

Licorice Root

Licorice root

Licorice root benefits skin and hair. Licorice root contains glabridin, a potent antioxidant that soothes skin. It lightens dark circles gently, improves uneven tone and skin redness. it is safe for even sensitive skin. [7]

Licorice Root Extract has hair regrowth capabilities. A study showed the Licorice Root infusion safely treated Alopecia with better clinical results than Minoxidil. [8]

Licorice root is an excellent scalp moisturizer you since it preserves the natural oils of the hair and does not dry out your scalp. Licorice Root extract also treats chemical hair damage with gentle moisturizing properties while leaving hair silky.

Lime Oil

Lime Peel Oil

Lime Peel Oil is formally known as Citrus Aurantifolia.

Lime Peel Oil is an antioxidant. It has skin-toning properties and can fade discoloration.

Lime Peel Oil is particularly effective when used in a formulation with multiple moisturizing buffers, but it is quite powerful and can be too strong for sensitive skin.

When using Lime Peel Oil, dilute with a soothing carrier oil or buffering cream.

Lingonberry Stem Cells

lingonberries

Lingonberry stem cells increase natural antioxidant mechanisms in skin cells. This decreases skin irritation and inflammation. Lingonberry is a superfruit. It is rich in vitamins C and E, both excellent for repairing and preventing sun damage.

Linoleic acid

Linoleic acid (Vitamin F) is an omega-6 fatty acid with skin barrier-strengthening, healing, hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties.

Linseed Oil

Linseed Oil helps hair damaged by styling tools. High in Omega 3s, Linseed can be massaged into the scalp to nourish the hair for new growth, and restore damaged hair.

Lithothamnion Calcareum

Lithothamnion Calcareum is Red Algae. Red Algae is a natural source of Astaxanthin.  It enhances the skin’s barrier function, replenishes moisture, and increases its moisture-retention capabilities.

Lupeol

Lupeol is an anti-inflammatory, derived from Mimosa flower Absolut, which benefits oily and sensitive skins.

Lutein

Lutein is a carotenoid that comes from marigolds.

We may best know it as an “eye vitamin” but topical Lutein promotes the regeneration of new tissue and soothes damaged skin.

Lysine

An essential amino acid, Lysine strengthens the skin’s surface, helps to hydrate skin, clears acne, and supplies collagen-making components to the skin. Vital to healthy, beautiful skin.

References

1. Lee BH, Lee JS, Kim YC. “Hair Growth-Promoting Effects of Lavender Oil in C57BL/6 Mice. ToxicolRes 2016;32:103-108.
2. Man, Adrian et al. “Antimicrobial Activity of Six Essential Oils Against a Group of Human Pathogens: A Comparative Study.”  Pathogens (Basel, Switzerland) vol. 8,1 15. 28 Jan. 2019, doi:10.3390/pathogens8010015
3. Anil Kumar Maurya, et al, “The essential oil from Citrus limetta Risso peels alleviates skin inflammation: In-vitro and in-vivo study”, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, Volume 212, 2018, Pages 86-94
4. Hou, He-Shuai, et al. “Extraction of essential oil from Citrus reticulate Blanco peel and its antibacterial activity against Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes).” Heliyon vol. 5,12 e02947. 2 Dec. 2019, doi:10.1016/j.heliyon.2019.e02947
5. Chihara G. Immunopharmacology of lentinan and the glucans. EOS – Riv Immunol. Immunopharmacol. 4, 85-96 (1984)
6. Gilchrest BA. & al. Effect of chronologic aging and UV irradiation on Langherans cells in human epidermis. J Invest Dermatol. 79, 85-88 (1982)
7. Natural Product Research, December 2007, pages 1,234-1,239
8. Deb Roy, Saumendu & Karmakar, Prithivi & Dash, Suvakanta & Jashabir, Chakraborty & Biswajit, Das. (2014). HAIR GROWTH STIMULATING EFFECT AND PHYTOCHEMICAL EVALUATION OF HYDRO-ALCOHOLIC EXTRACT OF GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA. Global Journal of Research in Medicinal Plants and Indigenous Medicines. 3. 40-47.

Skin & Hair care A-Z beauty glossary definitions. Defining active ingredients with meaningful results. Updated regularly.

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E

E (Vitamin)

Vitamin E softens the skin, making scar tissue more pliable and soft. It gives the skin a cushion to deter wrinkles and fine lines. It also supports skeletal and smooth muscles, including facial and throat muscle. In one study, people with hair loss experienced 34.5% more hair growth after taking a 100 mg vitamin E supplement for eight months. It is presumed to fight oxidative stress on the scalp [1]

EGCG comes from Flowering Camellia Sinensis or Green Tea

Eczema

A skin condition characterized by itchy, irritated skin. The raised, inflamed skin can be painful and red and requires care in washing and maintaining adequate barrier function with moisturization.

Edelweiss is a natural anti-aging ingredient

Edelweiss

Edelweiss is a mountain flower high in antioxidants. It tightens and appears to lift sagging skin; smooths the look of wrinkles

EGCG

EGCG is Epigallocatechin gallate, the potent antioxidant from green tea. It protects against environmental damage and neutralizes free radicals that prematurely age skin. It is beneficial to drink and for topical application. Research shows EGCG reactivates dying skin cells. This shows promise for repairing sun damage and for scar healing. [2]

Eggplant Extract

Rich in Vitamin C and glucosides, eggplant extract heals sun damage-based hyperpigmentation by evening out age spots as well as helping to assist in different skin problems like Eczema and Psoriasis.

Elastin, Hydrolyzed Elastin

Elastin is a protein found in skin and hair. Elastin is paired collagen in the dermis skin layer and gives structural support to skin. It is the stretchy structural proteins that allow the skin to snap back into place. Elastin is vulnerable to sun damage. Elastin is as important as collagen for the appearance of younger skin, but fewer products address the loss of skin elastin. Unlike collagen, topically applied elastin is readily absorbed by the skin and can promote new elastin synthesis. [3] In hair, elastin is easier to replace. Elastin gives hair the ability to stretch and resist breakage. Hydrolyzed Elastin adds strength, body, and elasticity to hair. It improves hair’s tensile strength and moisture retention. This reduces hair breakage.

Elder Flower

Elder Flower is rich in bioflavonoids that help prevent wrinkles

Branch with fresh Elderberries. Elderberry extract provides a gentle Vitamin C

Elderberry Fruit Extract

Common name for extract from the Sambucus Nigra. Elderberry Extract increases microcirculation. It is high in Vitamin C and E to decrease fine lines, but is still gentle enough to use delicate skin such as orbital area skin or on the lips.

Eleven lines

Eleven lines is a term used to describe the pair of expression lines that appear between the eyebrows, above the nose. They are most noticeable in movement, due to “crunching” the brow while working or even while asleep. Eleven lines are common but respond well to retinol treatments.

Elfe Flower

Elfe Flower

Elfe Flower is used to thicken thin skin, especially useful around the eyes and mouth to reduce wrinkling.

Ellagic Acid

A polyphenol found in many berries and nuts, pomegranates, dark-colored grapes, and red wines. It is a powerful antioxidant within skincare both topically and orally.

Ellagic acid reduces the destruction of collagen as well as protects against Ultraviolet sun damage. ^[4] Ellagic acid is also a moisture sealant.

Emollient

Ingredients that lubricate the skin surface, smoothing or softening its’ appearance. They tend to be heavier than creams and moisturizers.

Emulsifier

An emulsifier binds together skin care ingredients.  There are both synthetic chemical and natural emulsifiers.

Epidermis

Epidermis is the thin, outer protective layer of the skin. The epidermis is made up of five sub-layers: the stratum germinativum, stratum spinosum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, and stratum corneum.

Essence

A concentrated formulation with a water or serum consistency which is splashed or dabbed onto skin after cleansing.  The purpose is to hydrate and prepare the skin for the next layer of skincare applied afterwards, typically a treating active or moisturizer.   A product commonly seen in multi-step skin care routines. A good essence contains no occlusives which would block absorption.

Eucalyptus

Essential Oil

Essential Oil is concentrated liquid compounds or extracts of plants. It is generally aromatic. A few drops are diluted into a carrier oil. There are various health and beauty benefits to Essential Oils. Lavender is used for hair conditioning, Rosemary Oil promotes scalp health. Tea Tree is used for acne.

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax 

A vegan substitute for beeswax but with similar properties. It works well with other waxes for improved product consistency and to raise melting points without chemicals.

Eucalyptus Essential Oil

From the Eucalyptus plant. Eucalyptus Oil is an invigorating scent. It is a common addition to a facial steam treatment as Eucalyptus Oil moistures the skin and locks in moisture. In skincare it is an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral antioxidant that can be used in bath and face washes. It also has clarifying and antiseptic properties to heal wounds from acne, psoriasis, or eczema. The macrocarpal in Eucalyptus increases ceramides. [5] It helps congestion due to allergies, colds, or respiratory issues. Best used on oilier skins and in moderation on dry or sensitive skins. Highly potent, always dilute.

Eugenia Caryophyllus

Eugenia caryophyllus is clove leaf oil.

Clove leaf oil can firm the skin.

It is also an anti-inflammatory that reduces acne-causing bacteria.

Evening Primrose Oil

Evening Primrose

Evening Primrose Oil is a vitamin supplement and topical ingredient that restores a glow to the skin. It is excellent as a topical ingredient to provide moisture without clogging the skin and is helpful for eczema and acne. Supports elastin, moisture, and skin firmness. [6] Full of Omega-6 fatty acids, it keeps hair and skin healthy. As an oral supplement, it supports skin health and acne reduction, but some experience a period of acne breakouts before skin stability is achieved.

Exfoliate, Exfoliation

To remove the dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin. Exfoliation smooths the appearance of the skin and is helpful in reducing acne formation as it removes dead skin cells that can harbor bacteria in clogged pores. Chemical peels, grain scrubs, and dermabrasion devices are all means of exfoliation.

References

1. Beoy LA, Woei WJ, Hay YK. Effects of tocotrienol supplementation on hair growth in human volunteers. Trop Life Sci Res. 2010 Dec;21(2):91-9. PMID: 24575202; PMCID: PMC3819075.
2. Journal of Pharmacol Exp Ther 2003 306: 29-34
3. Ganceviciene, Ruta et al. “Skin anti-aging strategies. Dermato-endocrinology” vol. 4,3 (2012): 308-19.
4. Bae JY, Choi JS, Kang SW, Lee YJ, Park J, Kang YH. Dietary compound ellagic acid alleviates skin wrinkle and inflammation induced by UV-B irradiation. Exp Dermatol. 2010;19(8):e182-e190. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.01044.x
5. Ishikawa J, Shimotoyodome Y, Chen S, Ohkubo K, Takagi Y, Fujimura T, Kitahara T, Takema Y. “Eucalyptus increases ceramide levels in keratinocytes and improves stratum corneum function”.  J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Feb;34(1):17-22. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00675.x. Epub 2011 Jun 23.
6. Muggli, R. (2005), Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 27: 243-249. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00274.x

Definition guide of skin and hair care terms. We define active organic and high-end ingredients with big impact. New terms updated regularly.

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B

B3 – Be    Bh – Bu

B Vitamins

The B Vitamins work together to support processes that impact hair growth. These include signaling the body to grow hair and keratin production. The B’s process iron which is vital for hair health.B3 (Vitamin)

B3 (Vitamin)

B3 is Niacin, part of the B vitamin family. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory when applied topically. Niacinamide reduces the redness and swelling of acne, irritated, and blotchy skin.

B5 (Vitamin)

B5 (Pantothenic Acid) is part of the B vitamin family, it helps soothe and regenerate skin. It makes hair strong, soft and silky. As a vitamin, it synthesizes and metabolizes proteins, carbs, and fats to make energy.

B7 (Vitamin)

B7 Helps hair cells reach maturity. See Biotin

B9 (Folate or Folic Acid)

B9 is for DNA, red blood cell, and RNA production. Folate prevents anemia. Anemia can cause hair loss, weak nails, dull skin, and dark undereye circles.

B12 (Vitamin)

Many women have a B12 deficiency. Some problems include fatigue, headaches, and weight gain from a slower metabolism. It also causes brittle hair, dull skin, and weak fingernails.

Baobob Fruit

Baobab Seed Extract

Baobob is a tropical, fruit-bearing, indigenous tree. Baobab Seed Extract or Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata is considered a superfruit. Rich in Vitamins A, C, D, and E, it feeds the skin. Baobob seed extract also contains moisture-retaining properties to reduce transepidermal water loss. Rich in Omega-3s such as palmitic, oleic, linolenic, and linoleic acids. Omegas moisturize and refine skin. They also build elastin, repair the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation. These properties make Baobab seed extract helpful for treating dry skin, even that affected by eczema. [1] Studies show the linoleic acid makes Baobob an effective acne treatment [2] while concurrently addressing signs of aging.

Baikal Skullcap

The root of Baikal Skullcap contains baicalin, wogonoside, baicalein, wogonin, and oroxylin A, all of which are flavones, a type of antioxidant that lend color to various plants and are known to be soothing. Also known as Scutellaria baicalensis root can help skin better withstand environmental aggressors that can worsen the look of many common skin concerns.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a natural retinol alternative. It is plant-based, non-irritating and clinically proven statistically as effective as retinol. Bakuchiol improves photoaging, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation equally as well as retinol, but Bakuchiol is better tolerated. [3] Bakuchiol stimulates collagen within the skin, as well as significant improvement in wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness without the retinol associated side effects. [4] Bakuchiol inhibits melanin production on age spots and acne scars better than arbutin [5]. Bakuchiol helps with acne.[6] Bakuchiol is derived from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant.

Baking Soda

Baking Soda is a natural abrasive that softens the skin, but it is too harsh and drying for delicate facial skin. It cleanses teeth, exfoliates rough elbows, and can be occasionally used as part of a clarifying hair treatment. Common in organic bath bombs.

Bamboo Sprouts

Bamboo Stem Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea

Bamboo Stem Extract has flavones, a source of natural antioxidants. Since the skin on lips is a major target of oxidative stress, the antioxidant protection provided by bamboo extract is excellent within this formulation.[7]

Bamboo extract contains glycosides, phenolic acids, and amino acids. These hold skin nourishing and soothing properties.

Bamboo extract is also hydrating, supporting other hydrating and humectant  ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and Manuka Honey.[8,9]

Beeswax is an anti-allergenic occlusive

Beeswax

Beeswax has an occlusive quality to provide a barrier while retaining moisture. It protects from irritants and acts as a long-lasting protective barrier layer from environmental irritants and extreme weather.  Beeswax softens skin and provides a bit of natural lip-plumping quality. It is a natural skin conditioner that stands up to wind, dry weather, cold winters, and hot summer sun.  It is an anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory. Packed with vitamin A, beeswax helps with healing, stimulates cell turnover, protects against UV radiation, and fights against the free radicals that cause premature signs of aging.

Behentrimonium Chloride

A natural conditioning agent obtained from the oil of field mustard seeds (oilseed turnip). This plant-based agent detangles the hair and reduces static while softening and strengthening the hair. [10] It penetrates the hair shaft so it is a potent conditioner.

Field Mustard

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide is an antibacterial wash or topical ingredient to fight the bacteria that form acne. BP is often too harsh for adult acne except for spot application.

Bergamot

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia, better known as Bergamot has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Linalool and carvacrol are compounds in bergamot oil. Both are excellent anti-inflammatories for skin issues such as acne and skin irritation.[11] It also lends scent to skin and hair products.

Bergamot contains Linalool, which as a natural scent that deters mosquitos

Beta-Glucan

Derived from oat, Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide sugar derived from yeast or oats. It is an antioxidant and skin-soother especially helpful for calming red, irritated skin.

Beta-hydroxy Acid (bHA)

Beta-hydroxy acid is an oil-soluble exfoliant made from fruit and milk sugars. Used in skincare to treat wrinkles, blackheads, and photoaging.

Betula Alba Bark Extract comes from White Birch Bark.

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract comes from the White Birch tree. It contains vitamins B1, B2, A, C, and E. It is known for skin healing, conditioning, and anti-inflammatory properties. Research indicates that that birch bark extract can improve the skin barrier, increase skin hydration, and reduce trans-epidermal water loss [12].

References

1. Pirez-S¡nchez A. Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies. Nutrients. 2018; 10(4):403.
2. Komane, Baatile M., et al. Beauty in Baobab: a pilot study of the safety and efficacy of Adansonia digitata seed oil, Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, Volume 27, Issue 1, 2017, Pages 1-8, ISSN 0102-695X,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001
3. Dhaliwal, S.; Rybak, I.; Ellis, S.R.; Notay, M.; Trivedi, M.; Burney, W.; Vaughn, A.R.; Nguyen, M.; Reiter, P. (February 2019). €œProspective, randomized, double €blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing” British Journal of Dermatology. 180 (2): 289 €“296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918. ISSN 0007-0963. PMID 29947134.
4. Journal of Natural Pharaceuticals, December 2010, issue 1, page 40
5. Tanaka A., Zhu Q. et al. Biological activities and phytochemical profiles of extracts from different parts of bamboo (Phyllostachys pubescens). Molecules 19, 8238-60 (2014)
6. Wang J., Yue YD. et al. TLC screening for antioxidant activity of extracts from fifteen bamboo species and identification of antioxidant flavone glycosides from leaves of Bambusa. textilis McClure. Molecules 17, 12297-311 (2012)
7. Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30. doi: 10.1111/ics.12117. Epub 2014 Mar 6. PMID: 24471735.
8. Ohno O, Watabe T, Nakamura K, Kawagoshi M, Uotsu N, Chiba T, Yamada M, Yamaguchi K, Yamada K, Miyamoto K, Uemura D. Inhibitory effects of bakuchiol, bavachin, and isobavachalcone isolated from Piper longum on melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(7):1504-6. doi: 10.1271/bbb.100221. Epub 2010 Jul 7. PMID: 20622433.
9. Chaudhuri, Ratan & Marchio, Francois. (2011). Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected Skin. Cosmet. Toilet.. 126. 502-510.
10. Kortemeier, U., Langer, S., Schwab, P., Yang, B., Howe, A., & Facuri, S. (2013). Ingredients for ethnic hair care products: ethnic care. South African Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Review, 40(3), 18-22.
11. de Cássia da Silveira E Sá, Rita et al. “Analgesic-Like Activity of Essential Oil Constituents: An Update. “ International journal of molecular sciences vol. 18,12 2392. 9 Dec. 2017, doi:10.3390/ijms18122392
12. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 2011;24(6):289-93. 2011 Jun 25., Dermocosmetics for dry skin: a new role for botanical extracts.
13. International Journal of Women €™s Dermatology, June 2015, pages 85-89
    
14. Al-Bader T, Byrne A, Gillbro J, Mitarotonda A, Metois A, Vial F, Rawlings AV, Laloeuf A. Effect of cosmetic ingredient as anticellulite agents: synergistic action of actives with in vitro and in vivo efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2012 Mar;11(1):17-26. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00594.x. PMID: 22360330.
15. Fujimura T, Tsukahara K, Moriwaki S, Kitahara T, Sano T, Takema Y. Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes its thickness and mechanical properties. J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Jan-Feb;53(1):1-9. PMID: 11917251.

Glossary of ingredients. Decode ingredient list labels with this definition guide of skin & hair care buzzwords. Focusing on clean ingredients with effective results.

A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M

N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V |W| X | Y | Z

A

A – Al     Am – Az

A (Vitamin)

Topical Vitamin A is retinoids. Retinol has powerful anti-aging and collagen production properties. Retinoids treat acne and fade acne scars. Vitamin A keeps the scalp moist by producing healthy sebum, which keeps hair from drying out and breaking off. It also facilitates the hair growth phase. Too little or too much vitamin A from supplements can cause hair loss. Proper dosage is necessary. Vitamin A promotes the growth and repair of body tissues.

Abyssinian Seed Oil

Abyssinian Seed Oil is lightweight and absorbs easily. It contains linoleic acid, which is the predominant fat in skin cells. It forms the lipid barrier that holds moisture in skin cells, which keeps skin hydrated. It offers high spreadability with no tack. Abyssinian Seed Oil uniquely contains a high percentage of unsaturated C22 fatty acids, making it highly resistant to oxidation.

Acacia

Acacia (Shikakai) is a flowering shrub. It improves hair texture as a conditioning agent. It nourishes the scalp to promote hair growth. Shikakai is also used as a gentle shampoo. Combine with Amla as a hair treatment.

On the skin, Acacia moisturizes, firms, and tightens; it reduces the look of wrinkles and smooths skin. It is often used in natural peel-off face masks to form a film.

Acacia dealbata

Acacia dealbata is mimosa flower absolute, with the purest form found in Grasse, France. Mimosa benefits oily and sensitive skins. It contains Lupeol, an anti-inflammatory.

Acai, AÇAI

A Brazilian fruit that is high in nutrients and antioxidants. It is an antioxidant and considered a superfood. When applied topically, it delays signs of aging. While everyone can benefit from Acai, it is particularly useful for skin that has not yet shown signs of aging.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl hexapeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide of several amino acids. It enables the skin to defend against environmental aggressors while evening out skin tone via melanin regulation.

Acetyl hexapeptide-37

Acetyl hexapeptide-37 is a synthetic peptide. It is a combination of amino acids alanine, proline, serine, and glycine. Acetyl hexapeptide-37 balances the water in the skin’s surface layers to alleviate dehydrated skin.

Achillea Millefolium Extract or Yarrow

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract is Yarrow. Traditionally used in both eastern and western ancient medicine and folk medicine practice, it reduces inflammation while promoting healing and circulation.

Activated Charcoal

A form of charcoal carbon, generally in powder form, used in cleansers and masks to absorb excess oil from pores. It is also used to naturally whiten teeth. While not abrasive or directly drying, because it is so highly absorbent, activated charcoal products are generally not for daily use.

Adapalene

Adapalene is Differin, OTC retinol available for acne.

Phaseolus Angularis or Adzuki Seed

Adzuki Seed Powder

Adzuki Seed Powder, AKA Phaseolus Angularis, is a Japanese beauty secret. Adzuki Seeds are a bean. When ground, they make a powder. These ground beans are a natural exfoliant. They are not sharp or jagged like exfoliating nutshells seen in some products. They provide a gentle effective buffing to the skin to exfoliate without damage.

Agar

A sugar molecule made from algae which is used in makeup, cleansers, and shampoo as a thickener. It has some antioxidant benefits. Replaces chemical fillers in clean formulations.

Age Spots

Age spots are small and flat pigment spots due to sun exposure. Age spots usually occur after the age of 40. Regular sunscreen use can prevent age spots due to photodamage. Vitamin C serums can fade age spot discoloration.

Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract

Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract comes from the Lady’s mantle flower/herb. It is rich in tannins, flavonoids, and salicylic acid. Salicylic build collagen and treats acne.

The extract from Lady’s mantle herb (Alchemilla mollis) provides a gentle Salicylic Acid to treat acne without skin irritation

Alcohol

Alcohol used as a stabilizer in products. Not all alcohols in skin and hair care are drying or irritating. There are “good” moisture-binding alcohols, preservative alcohols that are considered neutral to helpful, and “bad” alcohols that can be drying to hair and skin.

kukui seed oil comes from kukui nuts

Aleurites Moluccana

Aleurites moluccana is kukui seed oil. It is used to intensely hydrate and moisture skin.

This oil can do something unusual: it can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin. This is exciting since it also helps promote collagen production. The deeper the skin can make collagen, the firmer it looks.

Algae Extract

Algae Extract is packed with skin essential vitamins and minerals. It not only detoxifies the skin. but algae conditions, hydrates, and softens skin while refining skin texture. The amino acids in algae neutralize free-radicals. Algae can improve skin barrier function. The Polyphenols in algae offer anti-aging benefits. ^[1] Red and brown algae each have unique properties within skincare. Algae used in tandem with light therapy offers increased benefits.

Algae can nourish skin and hair

Alginic acid, Algin

A biopolymer found in brown algae, such as Caulpera Lentilifera. Alginic acid strengthens the lipid barrier, retains hydration and promotes skin elasticity. It holds more than 100x its’ weight in water to retain moisture in the skin.

Almond Seedcake

Almond Seedcake (Extract) is a natural organic coating agent useful in hair conditioners and leave-in treatments. It has amino acids and proteins to strengthen the hair strand and smooth the appearance of the cuticle. Very helpful in restoring the appearance of health on damaged hair.

Alpha Arbutin

A natural skin-lightening agent extracted from bearberry. It inhibits melanocytes from producing melanin. Over time this slowly reduces hyperpigmentation. Effective on acne scars, photoaging, age spots, and certain types of dark undereye circles. Pairs well with Niacinamide

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are often referred to as AHAs. AHAs are a group of acids from sugar cane milk, grapes and citrus. AHAs are highly effective at making skin and wrinkles appear smoother. AHAs remove and loosen cells from the skin surface and helps the skin retain moisture. Some types of AHAs include lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and glycolic acid. AHAs are preferred for mature skin as there is no excess scrubbing or rubbing to achieve results.

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) is useful as both a vitamin and topical serum. It improves cellular energy production and reduces inflammation, a major cause of aging. It makes the skin have a natural glow. Helps the body best use Vitamin C and CoQ10. ALA improves cellular energy production, making skin look brighter. ALA is 400 times more powerful an antioxidant than Vitamin C and virtually eliminates free radicals.

The gel of the Aloe Vera plant nourishes and soothes skin and hair

 

Aloe Vera, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Aloe vera nourishes delicate eye skin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice comes from the Aloe Vera plant. It feeds the hair with essential nutrients and makes hair smooth, hydrated, soft, and shiny. Aloe Vera has an enzyme that repairs dead skin cells on the scalp for optimal hair growth. Aloe Vera soothes minor burns, scrapes, and heals the skin. It provides nourishment to the skin as it contains Vitamins A, C, Bs, and E as well as minerals and enzymes. This skin food heals, hydrates, and accelerates skin cell growth. It provides anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties.

Alopecia

Alopecia is the complete or partial loss of hair in either gender.

Altreno

Altreno is the first tretinoin lotion made specifically for adult acne.

 Am – Az Glossary Terms

References

1. Vinay, T. et al. Beneficial Effects of Marine Algal Compounds in Cosmeceuticals. Marine Drugs 11(1), 146-164 (2013)
2. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4)  Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
3. Davinelli S, Nielsen ME, Scapagnini G. Astaxanthin in Skin Health, Repair, and Disease: A Comprehensive Review. Nutrients. 2018 Apr 22;10(4):522. doi: 10.3390/nu10040522. PMID: 29690549; PMCID: PMC5946307.
4. Nishida, Y. and E. Yamashita. œQuenching Activities of Common Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Antioxidants against Singlet Oxygen Using Chemiluminescence Detection System. 2007).
   
5. Camera E., Mastrofrancesco A., Fabbri C., Daubrawa F., Picardo M., Sies H., Stahl W. Astaxanthin, canthaxanthin and beta-carotene differently affect UVA-induced oxidative damage and expression of oxidative stress-responsive enzymes. Exp. Dermatol. 2009;18:222–231. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2008.00790.x.
6. Tominaga K., Hongo N., Karato M., Yamashita E. Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on human subjects. Acta Biochim. Pol. 2012;59:43-47.
7. de Oliveira, Ana Paula et al. “Effect of semisolid formulation of persea americana mill (avocado) oil on wound healing” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine : eCAM vol. 2013 (2013): 472382. doi:10.1155/2013/47238

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