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Skin & Hair Glossary of Ingredients & Terms. Defining what skin & hair ingredients are & how to best use them. Updated regularly.

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R

Rapeseed Oil

Rapeseed Oil

Rapeseed Oil comes from a yellow flower cultivated mainly for its’ oil-rich seed.
It is an anti-oxidant that preserves skin moisture. it makes skin smooth and elastic. It also cleanses pores and gives skin a natural glow. Its’ anti-inflammatory properties heal skin and reduce redness.

Raspberry Seed Oil

Raspberry

Raspberry Seed Oil is also called Red Raspberry Seed Oil. It moisturizes the skin, improves elasticity, reduces wrinkles and fine lines. It contains multiple vitamins and nutrients that are wonderful for the skin. Raspberry Seed Oil contains phytosterols. Phytosterols promote new collagen production. Raspberry Seed Oil is rich in ellagic acid and has been shown to reduce the destruction of collagen, reduce wrinkles as well as protecting against Ultraviolet damage from the sun. [1] Ellagic acid is also a natural moisture sealant. Raspberry seed oil has a high Vitamin E content. Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant, it reduces skin damage and removes free radicals that contribute to skin-aging. Raspberry seed oil contains a high amount of Omega-6 and Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It also contains Salicylic Acid to tackle adult acne and build collagen.

Red Algae

Red Algae enhances the skin’s barrier function, replenishes moisture, and increases its moisture-retention capabilities.

Red Ginseng

Red ginseng is Panax. Ginseng root when aged several years is used for various health benefits. Research is mixed, depending on the ailment.

In skincare, one study showed it reduced inflammation and improved the antioxidant activity in skin cells impacted by eczema.[2].

Another study of young males taking daily ginseng, post-exercise inflammation and muscle damage was reduced for up to 72 hours after exercise (running uphill on a treadmill). [3]

Red Light Therapy

Red light is the wave of the spectral range considered useful for promoting wound healing, tissue repair, and skin rejuvenation.^[4,5]

Red light therapy increases adenosine triphosphate production or ATP, which promotes cellular energy production.

Red light therapy is available in spa and dermatology offices as well as at-home use light therapy devices.

Red Rose Wine

Red Rose Wine thickens skin, especially useful around the eyes and mouth. Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Reishi mushroom regenerates skin cells

Reishi Extract

Reishi Extract is also called Ganoderma, Asian Mushroom Extract or lingzhi. This kidney-shaped mushroom has been used for centuries in traditional medicinal practice and is known as the “mushroom of immortality”. It is used in some topical anti-aging products for both skin and hair.  It contains polysaccharides. These are responsible for the skin’s natural ability to hydrate and retain water. It also promotes cell regeneration while reducing skin inflammation, puffiness, and wrinkles. Reishi mushrooms are known as the “mushroom of immortality” because of their anti-aging properties.

Renovage

Renovage slows down the premature aging of cells. It operates on a deeper level of skin issues. Renovage fixes deep skin layer problems that surface serums and creams can’t reach. These issues include lightening over-pigmentation, reducing redness, and improving skin firmness.

Resveratrol

Resveratrol is a polyphenol that functions as an antioxidant. It is found in plant-based foods including grapes, mulberries, and peanuts, and to a lesser degree within red wine.  It is a skincare staple because it reverses aged (senescent) cells to a physically younger, active state. It has oral and topical benefits but poor bioavailability. [6]

Retinol

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative found in many skincare creams. It is commonly applied at night and refines the skin’s texture by causing rapid cell turnover. Softens wrinkles and reduces acne. An over-the-counter version of Retinoid.

Retin-A

A prescription brand name Retinoid, generally with a stronger percentage than available over the counter.

Retinoid

Topical retinoids are the strongest topical ingredients in a dermatologist’s arsenal for slowing signs of aging. Everyone in his or her thirties or beyond should get in the habit of incorporating a topical retinoid cream in their evening routine.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate is an antioxidant found naturally in our skin. Retinyl Palmitate is a natural form of Vitamin A that helps with wrinkles and fine lines. It also boosts collagen production to make skin look younger and plumper. It promotes cell regeneration.

Rice amino acids

Rice amino acids are a mixture of amino acids derived from the complete hydrolysis of rice protein.

Without protein, our skin becomes unprotected and rough. Our skin needs to make protein to stay healthy and hydrated. Rice amino acids can provide this protein. It provides a protective skin barrier.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is an effective anti-irritant that leaves dry skin smooth. It has an anti-inflammatory effect while providing skin hydration.

Rice Bran

Rice Bran Oil

Rice Bran Oil is a gentle anti-inflammatory oil that promotes hydration. It is a vital source of vitamins A, B2, B1, squalene, and two types of Vitamin E. This combo can hydrate, heal and soften skin while making scars and burns more pliable. It is high in fatty acids including Omega 6 and 9, both of which give skin a healthy glow. It is rich in ferulic acid (used in facial creams to support Vitamin C), plus inositol and gamma oryzanol, anti-oxidants, and nourishing moisturizers. [7] Rice bran oil evens out skin tone and reduces dark spots. [8] It is excellent for tackling fine lines and wrinkles [9] that often belie age on shoulders, arms, and legs.

Rooibos

Rooibos is an anti-inflammatory for the skin.  It is applied as a topical ingredient and consumed as a fruity tea.

Rose Absolute

Rose Absolute rejuvenates and firms skin.

Rosa Rugosa

Rose powder

Rose powder adds fragrance as well as softens hair.

Rosa Rugosa

Rosa Rugosa flower extract is rich in vitamin C, sucrose, citric acid, malic acid, and carotene. It promotes collagen production and reduces enlarged pores. It also makes the skin exceptionally smooth while removing excess inflammation.

Rosacea

A skin condition that causes redness and puffiness on the face, including cheeks and nose. Rosacea requires gentle measures in cleansing and product use.

Rosehips

Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosehip Seed Oil is high in Vitamins A, C, and E. They provide nutrients, fade acne scars and promote cell turnover. Rose Hip Seed Oil is a Vitamin C variant that is both a treatment and a hydrating ingredient. It offers the benefits of Vitamin C and Retinol serums such as lightening dark spots but without causing irritation.  Rosehip oil also has omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids to soothe and moisturize eczema or dry skin. [10] There is generally a strong scent.

Rosemary Extract, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS EXTRACT

Rosemary Extract combats dry skin. It naturally protects skin from sun damage and free radicals. It also has natural antiseptic properties and is a gentle exfoliant for dead skin flakes. Rosemary Extract is soothing and helps reduce puffiness and lightens dark spots. It is stimulating and promotes better blood circulation to deliver the nutrients necessary to build collagen, elastin and to encourage scar repair.

Rosemary leaves

Rosemary Oil

Rosemary Oil combats dry skin including dandruff. It naturally protects skin from sun damage and free radicals. It also has natural antiseptic properties. Research shows massaging the scalp for six months with Rosemary and Jojoba Oil is as effective as Minoxidil at regrowing hair.[11] Another study found the 12-methoxycarnosic acid in Rosemary Extract a promising crude drug for treating male pattern baldness caused by 5-reductase inhibition, or the testosterone conversion to DHT on the scalp. These results suggest that they inhibit the binding of dihydrotestosterone to androgen receptors.  [12]

Royal Jelly

Royal Jelly is a gelatinous bee product made to feed the queen bee. It is anti-inflammatory anti-oxidant that is filled with skin-friendly nutrients. It smooths fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps with wound healing [13] and skin repair. [14] Royal Jelly combats sun damage and can promote procollagen type I production. [15]

References

1. Bae JY, Choi JS, Kang SW, Lee YJ, Park J, Kang YH. Dietary compound ellagic acid alleviates skin wrinkle and inflammation induced by UV-B irradiation. Exp Dermatol. 2010;19(8):e182-e190. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0625.2009.01044.x
2. Hong CE, Lyu SY. Anti-inflammatory and Anti-oxidative Effects of Korean Red Ginseng Extract in Human Keratinocytes. Immune Netw. 2011;11(1):42-49. doi:10.4110/in.2011.11.1.42
3. Jung HL, Kwak HE, Kim SS, et al. Effects of Panax ginseng supplementation on muscle damage and inflammation after uphill treadmill running in humans. Am J Chin Med. 2011;39(3):441-450. doi:10.1142/S0192415X11008944
4. Wunsch, Alexander, and Karsten Matuschka. “A controlled trial to determine the efficacy of red and near-infrared light treatment in patient satisfaction, reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and intradermal collagen density increase.” Photomedicine and laser surgery vol. 32,2 (2014): 93-100. doi:10.1089/pho.2013.3616
5. Dungel, Peter et al. “Low level light therapy by LED of different wavelength induces angiogenesis and improves ischemic wound healing.” Lasers in surgery and medicine vol. 46,10 (2014): 773-80. doi:10.1002/lsm.22299
6. Salehi, Bahare et al. “Resveratrol: A Double-Edged Sword in Health Benefits.” Biomedicines vol. 6,3 91. 9 Sep. 2018, doi:10.3390/biomedicines6030091
7. Coppini, D.; Paganizzi, P.; Santi, P.; Ghirardini, A. Capacitá protettiva nei confronti delle radiazioni solari di derivati di origine vegetable. Cosm. News 2001, 136, 15–20. [Google Scholar]
8. Marto, Joana; Neves, Ângela; Gonçalves, Lídia M.; Pinto, Pedro; Almeida, Cristina; Simões, Sandra. 2018. “Rice Water: A Traditional Ingredient with Anti-Aging Efficacy.” Cosmetics 5, no. 2: 26.
9. Rigo, L.A.; da Silva, C.R.; de Oliveira, S.M.; Cabreira, T.N.; de Bona da Silva, C.; Ferreira, J.; Beck, R.C. Nanoencapsulation of rice bran oil increases its protective effects against UVB radiation-induced skin injury in mice. Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. 2015, 93, 11–17.
10. Grajzer, Magdalena, et al. “Characteristics of rose hip (Rosa canina L.) cold-pressed oil and its oxidative stability studied by the differential scanning calorimetry method.” Food chemistry 188 (2015): 459-466.
11. Panahi Y. et al, “Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment f androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial.” Skinmed. 2015 Jan-Feb;13(1):15-21.
12. Murata K, Noguchi K, Kondo M, et al. Promotion of hair growth by Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract. Phytother Res. 2013;27(2):212–217. doi:10.1002/ptr.4712
13. Bucekova M, Sojka M, Valachova I, et al. Bee-derived antibacterial peptide, defensin-1, promotes wound re-epithelialization in vitro and in vivo. Sci Rep. 2017;7(1):7340. Published 2017 Aug 4. doi:10.1038/s41598-017-07494-0
14. Park HM, Cho MH, Cho Y, Kim SY. Royal jelly increases collagen production in rat skin after ovariectomy. J Med Food. 2012;15(6):568–575. doi:10.1089/jmf.2011.1888
15. Park HM, Hwang E, Lee KG, Han SM, Cho Y, Kim SY. Royal jelly protects against ultraviolet B-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts via enhancing collagen production. J Med Food. 2011;14(9):899–906. doi:10.1089/jmf.2010.1363

Skin & Hair Glossary of ingredients & terms. Defining how to best use hair & skin ingredients. Updated regularly.

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O

Oat

Oat Flower

The oat floret. Oat flower is a skin-soothing hydrator. Oat soothes chronic skin conditions and can offset the potential drying effect of other ingredients within a formulation.

Oenothera biennis

Better known as evening primrose seed oil.Evening Primrose Seed Oil restores a glow to the skin. It provides moisture without clogging the skin and is helpful for eczema and acne.

Evening Primrose Seed Oil supports elastin, moisture retention, and skin firmness. [1]

Oil – Free

An oil-free product is free of natural and artificial oils. Recommended for those with oily or acne-prone skin.

Oleic Acid

A fatty acid better known as Omega-9 acid. It provides long-lasting moisture. See Omegas. 

Oligopeptide 68

Oligopeptide 68 is a peptide that balances melanin production. This supports the ability to fade discoloration. Oligopeptides are relatively short amino acid chains and absorb well into skin.

Olive Oil benefits skin and hair

Olive Oil

Olive Oil moisturizes but won’t clog pores. It has skin enhancing Omega-3s and polyphenols. Olive Oil makes hair smooth and shiny. Linoleic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect. On hair, it is best used as a hot oil treatment or within a cream formulation which makes it easier to rinse out residue after use.

Omega-6 

Linoleic acid. One of the major fatty acids. It has anti-inflammatory and hydrating properties. Omega-6 makes skin soft and dewy. [2]

Omegas

Omegas maintain ceramides, regulate sebum, and make skin glow. Omegas nourish the hair follicle, maintain scalp health and make the cuticle smooth and the shaft strong. Common Omegas found in food, supplements, and products include Omega-3s, Omega-6s, and Omega-9s.

Onion Bulb Extract

Research suggests onion extract can improve the appearance of burns and scars, and reduce pain and itching on dry, damaged skin.

Orange Oil

Orange Oil is an antioxidant that reduces inflammation. It improves collagen production resulting in the reduction of dark spots and wrinkles. The bacteria-fighting and inflammation reduction properties reduce acne without excess skin drying. Orange oil is useful when added to a massage oil or cream blend, especially for post-exercise sore joints.

Both Orange Oil and Orange Peel are antioxidants that are rich in Vitamin C

Orange Peel

Orange Peel has more Vitamin C than the fleshly orange fruit, almost double. It fights free radicals, removes blackheads and acne, and reduces wrinkles. Often used in face masks and scrubs.

Orchid

Orchid Extract

Orchids contain mucilage to maintain hydration. When applied to the skin, Orchid mucilage has a high water binding capacity, working as a moisturizer and emollient.^[3] Orchids are also an anti-oxidant to fight free radicals [4], increase skin immunity and plump fine lines. Orchid Extracts provide skin hydration. Orchid root cells provide the orchid bloom longevity. This functionality is extracted to provide long-lasting skin hydration and plumping action.

Organic

Organic refers to an ingredient that has been grown free of chemical pesticides. Read packaging carefully as organic does not necessarily mean that every ingredient is organic, or that the ingredients are certified organic. To obtain the organic label, “a product must include at least 95 percent organically produced and processed ingredients,” according to the National Organic Program of the USDA. [5] Organic products are gentler on hair and skin because they lack harsh elements or chemicals.

Oryza Sativa

Organic Certification

Certified Organic is when an Organic Certification Body or organization verifies that an ingredient was grown, prepared, processed and packaged without the use of synthetic fertilizers or chemicals.

Oryza Sativa

Also known as Rice Bran, Oryza Sativa comes from the outer husk of rice grains. Oryza Sativa has been used in Japan for centuries for hair and skin. It is rich in ceramides, beta-carotene, CoQ10, lycopene, Vitamins A, B, and Tocotrienols, the “super” vitamin E. These hydrate hair and skin to help maintain elasticity. It reduces pigmentation, and diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Oryza Sativa also contains Gamma Oryzanol, a Ferulic Acid ester that is an anti-aging antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage.[6]

References

1. Muggli, R. (2005), Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 27: 243-249. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00274.x
2. Alessandra Cristina Pedro, et al, Qualitative and nutritional comparison of goji berry fruits produced in organic and conventional systems, Scientia Horticulturae, Volume 257, 2019, 108660, ISSN 0304-4238, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scienta.2019.108660.
3. Hadi H, Razali SN, Awadh AI. A Comprehensive Review of the Cosmeceutical Benefits of Vanda Species (Orchidaceae). Nat Prod Commun. 2015 Aug;10(8):1483-8. PMID: 26434147.
4. Sut S, Maggi F, Dall’Acqua S. Bioactive Secondary Metabolites from Orchids (Orchidaceae). Chem Biodivers. 2017 Nov;14(11). doi: 10.1002/cbdv.201700172. Epub 2017 Oct 21. PMID: 28771984.
5. National Organic Program of the USDA, ams.usda.gov/rules-regulations/organic/labeling
6. M Patel and S N Naik*, Gamma-oryzanol from rice bran oil” A review. Journal of Scientific & Industrial Research Vol. 63, July 2004, pp 569-578