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Definition Guide of skin and hair care terms. We define skin and hair care ingredients with meaningful results. Updated regularly.

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D

D3 (Vitamin)

A D3 deficiency can lead to headaches, hair loss, dull skin, and poor sleep. A common deficiency for those who are diligent with sun protection products, but one that is easy to fix with supplements and proper diet. D is frequently found in hair supplements as it is a first line cause of hair thinning and breakage in the absence of other medical explanations.

Daffodil Root Extract

Daffodil Root Extract contains lycorine which is an anti-oxidant. ^[1]

Antioxidants help fight free radicals.  Free radicals accelerate the skins of aging.

Dandelion Extract

Dandelion Extract stimulates collagen production. Packed with vitamins A, C, and E, it protects skin against free radical damage and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Magnesium and zinc detoxify skin, and anti-inflammatory properties calm irritation and under-eye puffiness.

Dandelion extract promotes collagen production

Date oil, as extracted from the Date Fruit, is rich in fatty acids

Date Oil

Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract is better known as Date oil. Date Oil revives dull, dry, and brittle hair. It has the four fatty acids oleic, linoleic, lauric and palmitic acid. These feed reduce moisture loss in the hair, keep the hair cuticle sealed, and keep the scalp moisturized. It is also antimicrobial and antibacterial to keep the scalp clear. Date Oil is rich in hair-enhancing vitamins including B2 which can decrease hair fall. B2 produces Keratin and promotes hair elasticity. Date Oil contains copper and pantothenic acid (B5) which reduces premature graying of hair.

Daucus Carota Sativa

Daucus Carota Sativa is better known as Queen Anne’s Lace, Bird’s Nest or wild carrot. It is a white wildflower with lace-like umbrels.  Orange carrots as we know them have been cultivated from this wild carrot.

High in Vitamin A, wild carrot provides care for rough, dry, flaky skin and protects normal skin. High in antioxidants, it repairs skin damage and wrinkles. [2]  It stimulates the growth of new tissue and new skin, thus promoting a clearer, brighter, evenly toned complexion. By contributing moisture it keeps skin supple. Regular use on dry and cracked skin can result in the faster healing of scars. It calms irritation and the fades redness in acne marks and scars. Oil from the seed has been used cosmetically in anti-wrinkle creams.

Inflorescence of carrots, or Daucus Carota Sativa is high in Vitamin A and gently fades discoloration and scars

Decyl Glucoside

A mild surfactant used primarily in green beauty shampoos and cleansers. It is derived from coconuts is a quite gentle.

Dermabrasion

Dermabrasion is a surgical or in-office procedure where the skin is sanded down to remove the top layer. This reduces the appearance of scars or pox. Less powerful dermabrasion devices are available for at-home use.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning uses a surgical scalpel to gently scrape off the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal smoother and brighter skin. It also removes peach fuzz.  The benefit is improved skin texture, better product absorption, and younger skin appearance. Performed by dermatologists and with select at-home devices.

Dermatologically Tested

Tested on the skin by a dermatologist. This term usage varies by company or brand. The term does not automatically imply that the product results are “Dermatologist Approved” or “Dermatologist Recommended”.

Diatomaceous Earth

Diatomaceous Earth is a safe, natural, mild abrasive found in some natural toothpaste. It is fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton.

DHT (dihydrotestosterone)

DHT is a hormone which causes hair follicle shrinkage. DHT accumulates at the base of the hair follicle when hair is not washed daily. It also accumulates under dandruff and dry flakes. If left unaddressed, DHT shrinks the follicle and deters new hair growth until the follicle doesn’t grow hair at all. [3] Topical products and vitamins can remove or reduce DHT production and accumulation. Once DHT is removed, hair follicles may once again grow hair.

Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a type of silicone often used in oil-free moisturizers for slip and hydration.

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)

DMAE is useful in supplement and topical form for skin maintenance to maintain muscle and skin firmness. DMAE supplements support muscle tone, including facial muscles. Topical DMAE firms and tightens the appearance of the skin. It has short-term and long-range effects. Research is mixed but DMAE is used with some success, even if temporary, in several well known dermatologist skin care brands to give a skin tightening effect.

DNA Repair Enzymes

Marine extracts in a topical liposome delivery form which can correct the impact of sun damage to the skin. Notable improvements are seen in photodamage effects such as hyperpigmentation (brown spots) and wrinkles. Regular use of DNA Repair Enzymes have been shown to reduce basal cell carcinomas and other pre-cancerous lesions. and skin cancer. [4]

Double Cleansing 

A K-Beauty cleansing method of using a cleansing oil and a water-based face wash to dissolve heavier makeup and pollutants.  The need for and success of this method is highly contingent upon your environment (cities with pollution) and the skincare and makeup used (heavy, long-wearing or powder based foundations, waxy makeup, primers or sunscreens). Helpful method to gently remove difficult or long-wearing products.

REFERENCES

1. Jing Liu, Yan Li, Wei Ren, Wei-Xin Hu, Apoptosis of HL-60 cells induced by extracts from Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis, Cancer Letters, Volume 242, Issue 1, 2006, Pages 133-140,
   ISSN 0304-3835, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.canlet.2005.11.023.
2. Alves-Silva, Jorge M et al. “New Claims for Wild Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. carota) Essential Oil.” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine : eCAM vol. 2016 (2016): 9045196. doi:10.1155/2016/904519
3. Takahashi T, Kamiya T, Yokoo Y (1998): “Proanthocyanidins from grape seeds promote proliferation of mouse hair follicle cells in vitro. and convert hair cycle in vivo..” Acta Derm Venereol (Stockh) 78: 428-432.
4. Yarosh D, Klein J, O’Connor A, Hawk J, Rafal E, Wolf P. Effect of topically applied T4 endonuclease V in liposomes on skin cancer in xeroderma pigmentosum: a randomised study. Xeroderma Pigmentosum Study Group. Lancet. 2001;357(9260):926-929. doi:10.1016/s0140-6736(00)04214-8

Definition guide of skin and hair care terms. We define active organic and high-end ingredients with big impact. New terms updated regularly.

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B

B3 – Be    Bh – Bu

B Vitamins

The B Vitamins work together to support processes that impact hair growth. These include signaling the body to grow hair and keratin production. The B’s process iron which is vital for hair health.B3 (Vitamin)

B3 (Vitamin)

B3 is Niacin, part of the B vitamin family. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory when applied topically. Niacinamide reduces the redness and swelling of acne, irritated, and blotchy skin.

B5 (Vitamin)

B5 (Pantothenic Acid) is part of the B vitamin family, it helps soothe and regenerate skin. It makes hair strong, soft and silky. As a vitamin, it synthesizes and metabolizes proteins, carbs, and fats to make energy.

B7 (Vitamin)

B7 Helps hair cells reach maturity. See Biotin

B9 (Folate or Folic Acid)

B9 is for DNA, red blood cell, and RNA production. Folate prevents anemia. Anemia can cause hair loss, weak nails, dull skin, and dark undereye circles.

B12 (Vitamin)

Many women have a B12 deficiency. Some problems include fatigue, headaches, and weight gain from a slower metabolism. It also causes brittle hair, dull skin, and weak fingernails.

Baobob Fruit

Baobab Seed Extract

Baobob is a tropical, fruit-bearing, indigenous tree. Baobab Seed Extract or Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata is considered a superfruit. Rich in Vitamins A, C, D, and E, it feeds the skin. Baobob seed extract also contains moisture-retaining properties to reduce transepidermal water loss. Rich in Omega-3s such as palmitic, oleic, linolenic, and linoleic acids. Omegas moisturize and refine skin. They also build elastin, repair the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation. These properties make Baobab seed extract helpful for treating dry skin, even that affected by eczema. [1] Studies show the linoleic acid makes Baobob an effective acne treatment [2] while concurrently addressing signs of aging.

Baikal Skullcap

The root of Baikal Skullcap contains baicalin, wogonoside, baicalein, wogonin, and oroxylin A, all of which are flavones, a type of antioxidant that lend color to various plants and are known to be soothing. Also known as Scutellaria baicalensis root can help skin better withstand environmental aggressors that can worsen the look of many common skin concerns.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a natural retinol alternative. It is plant-based, non-irritating and clinically proven statistically as effective as retinol. Bakuchiol improves photoaging, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation equally as well as retinol, but Bakuchiol is better tolerated. [3] Bakuchiol stimulates collagen within the skin, as well as significant improvement in wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and firmness without the retinol associated side effects. [4] Bakuchiol inhibits melanin production on age spots and acne scars better than arbutin [5]. Bakuchiol helps with acne.[6] Bakuchiol is derived from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant.

Baking Soda

Baking Soda is a natural abrasive that softens the skin, but it is too harsh and drying for delicate facial skin. It cleanses teeth, exfoliates rough elbows, and can be occasionally used as part of a clarifying hair treatment. Common in organic bath bombs.

Bamboo Sprouts

Bamboo Stem Extract, Bambusa Arundinacea

Bamboo Stem Extract has flavones, a source of natural antioxidants. Since the skin on lips is a major target of oxidative stress, the antioxidant protection provided by bamboo extract is excellent within this formulation.[7]

Bamboo extract contains glycosides, phenolic acids, and amino acids. These hold skin nourishing and soothing properties.

Bamboo extract is also hydrating, supporting other hydrating and humectant  ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and Manuka Honey.[8,9]

Beeswax is an anti-allergenic occlusive

Beeswax

Beeswax has an occlusive quality to provide a barrier while retaining moisture. It protects from irritants and acts as a long-lasting protective barrier layer from environmental irritants and extreme weather.  Beeswax softens skin and provides a bit of natural lip-plumping quality. It is a natural skin conditioner that stands up to wind, dry weather, cold winters, and hot summer sun.  It is an anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory. Packed with vitamin A, beeswax helps with healing, stimulates cell turnover, protects against UV radiation, and fights against the free radicals that cause premature signs of aging.

Behentrimonium Chloride

A natural conditioning agent obtained from the oil of field mustard seeds (oilseed turnip). This plant-based agent detangles the hair and reduces static while softening and strengthening the hair. [10] It penetrates the hair shaft so it is a potent conditioner.

Field Mustard

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide is an antibacterial wash or topical ingredient to fight the bacteria that form acne. BP is often too harsh for adult acne except for spot application.

Bergamot

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia, better known as Bergamot has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Linalool and carvacrol are compounds in bergamot oil. Both are excellent anti-inflammatories for skin issues such as acne and skin irritation.[11] It also lends scent to skin and hair products.

Bergamot contains Linalool, which as a natural scent that deters mosquitos

Beta-Glucan

Derived from oat, Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide sugar derived from yeast or oats. It is an antioxidant and skin-soother especially helpful for calming red, irritated skin.

Beta-hydroxy Acid (bHA)

Beta-hydroxy acid is an oil-soluble exfoliant made from fruit and milk sugars. Used in skincare to treat wrinkles, blackheads, and photoaging.

Betula Alba Bark Extract comes from White Birch Bark.

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Betula Alba Bark Extract comes from the White Birch tree. It contains vitamins B1, B2, A, C, and E. It is known for skin healing, conditioning, and anti-inflammatory properties. Research indicates that that birch bark extract can improve the skin barrier, increase skin hydration, and reduce trans-epidermal water loss [12].

References

1. Pirez-S¡nchez A. Nutraceuticals for Skin Care: A Comprehensive Review of Human Clinical Studies. Nutrients. 2018; 10(4):403.
2. Komane, Baatile M., et al. Beauty in Baobab: a pilot study of the safety and efficacy of Adansonia digitata seed oil, Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, Volume 27, Issue 1, 2017, Pages 1-8, ISSN 0102-695X,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001
3. Dhaliwal, S.; Rybak, I.; Ellis, S.R.; Notay, M.; Trivedi, M.; Burney, W.; Vaughn, A.R.; Nguyen, M.; Reiter, P. (February 2019). €œProspective, randomized, double €blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing” British Journal of Dermatology. 180 (2): 289 €“296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918. ISSN 0007-0963. PMID 29947134.
4. Journal of Natural Pharaceuticals, December 2010, issue 1, page 40
5. Tanaka A., Zhu Q. et al. Biological activities and phytochemical profiles of extracts from different parts of bamboo (Phyllostachys pubescens). Molecules 19, 8238-60 (2014)
6. Wang J., Yue YD. et al. TLC screening for antioxidant activity of extracts from fifteen bamboo species and identification of antioxidant flavone glycosides from leaves of Bambusa. textilis McClure. Molecules 17, 12297-311 (2012)
7. Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30. doi: 10.1111/ics.12117. Epub 2014 Mar 6. PMID: 24471735.
8. Ohno O, Watabe T, Nakamura K, Kawagoshi M, Uotsu N, Chiba T, Yamada M, Yamaguchi K, Yamada K, Miyamoto K, Uemura D. Inhibitory effects of bakuchiol, bavachin, and isobavachalcone isolated from Piper longum on melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(7):1504-6. doi: 10.1271/bbb.100221. Epub 2010 Jul 7. PMID: 20622433.
9. Chaudhuri, Ratan & Marchio, Francois. (2011). Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected Skin. Cosmet. Toilet.. 126. 502-510.
10. Kortemeier, U., Langer, S., Schwab, P., Yang, B., Howe, A., & Facuri, S. (2013). Ingredients for ethnic hair care products: ethnic care. South African Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Review, 40(3), 18-22.
11. de Cássia da Silveira E Sá, Rita et al. “Analgesic-Like Activity of Essential Oil Constituents: An Update. “ International journal of molecular sciences vol. 18,12 2392. 9 Dec. 2017, doi:10.3390/ijms18122392
12. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 2011;24(6):289-93. 2011 Jun 25., Dermocosmetics for dry skin: a new role for botanical extracts.
13. International Journal of Women €™s Dermatology, June 2015, pages 85-89
    
14. Al-Bader T, Byrne A, Gillbro J, Mitarotonda A, Metois A, Vial F, Rawlings AV, Laloeuf A. Effect of cosmetic ingredient as anticellulite agents: synergistic action of actives with in vitro and in vivo efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2012 Mar;11(1):17-26. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00594.x. PMID: 22360330.
15. Fujimura T, Tsukahara K, Moriwaki S, Kitahara T, Sano T, Takema Y. Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes its thickness and mechanical properties. J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Jan-Feb;53(1):1-9. PMID: 11917251.